Sewing machine for collars



April 27, 1943- H. JOHNSTON 2,317,614

SEWING MACHINE FOR COLLARS Filed June 3, 1959 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 27, 1943. H. JOHNSTON SEWING MACHINE FOR COLLARS Filed June 3, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 April 27, 1943.

H. JOHNSTON SEWING MACHINE FOR COLLARS Filed June 3. 1959 s sheets-sheet's Patented Apr. 27, 1943 UNITEDSTATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE FOR COLLARS Harry Johnston, St. Louis, Mo., assignor, by direct and mesne assignments, of one-half to Edward Greensfelder and Mercantile-Commerce Bank and Trust Company, trustees under the will of Wilton Rubinstein, deceased, and one-half to Edward Greensfelder and Mercantile-Commerce Bank and Trust Company, trustees for Blanche Rubinstein, Louise Rubinstein, Ann Rubinstein, and Peggy Rubinstein Application June 3, 1939, Serial No. 277,310

1 Claim. (Cl. 112-136) This invention relates to sewing machines for collars; and has special reference to sewing machines for attaching to the infold ply of an apparel collar a tape extending longitudinally along the fold line and cooperating with adjacent attached collar elements to control and form a, definite longitudinal fold line in the collar.

The present invention comprises improved devices for embodiment in sewing machines used for making apparel collars of the type disclosed in Wilton Rubinstein Patents Nos. 2,152,093 and 2,152,094, both dated March 28, 1939, as well as turned down collars of other types having means for controlling the fold lines along the line dening the union of the bands and capesvand between upper edges of separate lining sections in the band and cape portions of the collars.

Objects of the invention are to provide an improvement i-n sewing machines for use in manufacturing collars of the turned down type which include unitary exposed and infold plies, respectively, extending the full length and Width f the collar band and cape, comprising mechanism for attaching by parallel rows of stitches to the inner or concealed side of the infold ply of the collar an initially straight tape or strip that is curved and attached to the inner or concealed side of the infold ply across the fold line of the collar and extending a short distance downwardly into the cape and a short distance downwardly into the band without wrlnkling either the tape or the collar ply; to provide means cooperating with a previously attached fband lining section to guide the infold ply in a relationship in which the tape or strip covers and extends across the currved upper longitudinal edge of a band lining section that had been previously attached to the infold ply so that, as the parallel rows of stitches are formed to attach the tape or strip to the infold ply and to the cape lining section of the collar, said tape or strip will be curved in conformity with the upper curved edge of the band lining section and attached to the infold ply by curved li-nes of stitches without Wrinkling any of the attached parts; and to provide mechanisms for greatly facilitating and expedlting the manufacture of collars of the type disclosed in said patents.

Another object of the invention is to provide improved means for use in assuring the formation of parallel curved lines of stitches for attaching an originally straight tape or strip of pliable material to a flat collar ply along a curved line and across the curved edge of a collar lining section by curving said strip along said line and edge and attaching the same to the collar ply without visibly distorting either the strip or the collar ply, or forming noticeable wrinkles or creases.

Various other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following description, reference being made to the annexed drawings, in which- Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a part' of a sewing machine for curvi-ng and attaching an originally straight strip or tape to a collar ply directly.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a part of the machine looking in the direction indicated by the arrows at the ends of the line 2-2 of Fig. l.

Fig. 3 is a left-hand side elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. l.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view approximately on the line 4 4 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is a reduced plan view showing the position of the infold collar ply with one curved edge thereof functioning to position the collar ply during its passage through the machine while the tape is being attached to the concealed side thereof.

Fig. 6 is a perspective View of a part of the device shown inl Fig. 2 cooperatively related to the feed dog of the sewing machine.

Fig. 'l is a plan view of the exposed side of the infold ply showing the longitudinal curved lines of stitches attaching the strip or tape to the concealed side thereof.

Fig. Bis a similar plan view of the concealed side of the collar ply showing the tape curved and attached by curved lines of stitches to the collar ply.

Fig. 9 is a view showing the initial position of the collar ply contacting with a positioning device therefor before the stitches enter the collar ply to attach the tape thereto.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged plan view of an embodiment of the invention cooperating with the curved upper edge of an attached band lining section to guide the infold ply in a, curved line through the sewing machine.

Fig. 11 is a. side elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 10, illustrating more clearly the guides for the collar ply and the tape, respectively.

Fig. 12 isa front elevation of the devices shown in Figs. 10 and 1l.

This is a continuation i-n part of my abandoned application Serial No. 234,544, filed October 12, 1938, for improvements in sewing machines for collars.

In that specific part of the present invention thatisdisclosedinsaidoriginalapplication,a tapeisattachedtotheconcealodsideoitheinfoldplyofanapparelcoilarbymeans coupentingwiththestitch-formingmechaniamotaaewingmachineforguidingtheoollarplyandthe -tapein a'eooperative relationahipinwhichthe According to this speciilc form oi.' the invention,

a supporting bar or piece It is attached to a stationary part of the throat plate I between the needles t and I and in the space l approximately midway between the sides of the feed dog and extends relatively a considerable distance above the upper surface of the plate i and above the highest position of the feed dog (Fig. 4). During operation of the sewing machine, the parts are operated relatively to relieve pressure by the feed dog against the material-in this instance the tape Il-under the presser foot, thereby disengaging the feed dog from the material or tape which remains upon the stationary part Il, thereby permitting lateral turning of the material so that the tape may be curved and attached to the infold ply by curved parallel lines of stitches without wrinkling or buckling either the tape or the ply to which it is attached.

In this form of the invention, the straight unfolded tape is guided above the feed dog and the bar I8 by a guide Il attached to the bed I forwardly beyond said feed dog. so that said tape is fed to proper position for engagement by the feed dog and the presser foot I4 and for operation of the needles 8 and 0 to form parallel lines of stitches through the margins of the tape,

The infold collar ply I9 has a curved edge 2li which contacts with the gages of the present invention to guide the collar ply properly for attachment oi' the tape I1 to said ply. A gage 2i having its gaging edge 7 toward the sewing mechanism is seated on the plate I and formed with a plainly visible portion 2l which may be a notch, groove, rib or other marker for use in locating the proper position of the end of the collar infold ply Il preparatory for beginning sewing said infold ply and the tape I1 together. The gage 2| is securedtothevlatelbyascrew 2l passing through a slot 2l in said im and into the plate 5. This permits the gage 2l to be turned to different positions about the screw' 24 as an axis and to be adjusted in different positions toward and from the sewing mechanism.

In its preparatory adjustment, the infold ply Il is laid upon the bed I acro the tape I1 with its curved outer end of the edge 20 against and matching the gaging edge 22 oi' the gage 2i and the extreme end of the band 'portion of the infold ply at the marker 22. Operation of the sewing machine is then started and the infold ply of the collar is moved along with 4the tape Il, and two rows of stitches 20 and 21 are formed. Movement of the infold ply il is continued in a substantially straight direction, the end portion of said ply rising above and moving across the'inner end of the gage 2| until the curved edge 20 of said infold ply contacts with a gage 28 having a slot '2l through which the screw 2l passes to secure said gage 2l in its proper position. The slot 2t permits the gage 2l to be turned or to be moved longitudinally to diiferent adjusted positions with the gage 2i or with respect thereto. When the curved edge 2l of the infold collar ply contacts with the gage 2l. said collar ply is guided thereby, the tape Il operating along the bar It which detaches said tape from positive restraint by the feed dog and the presser foot I4 when the feed dog moves downwardly in its usual operations. Buch detachment of the tape I1 from the feed dog permits that necessary slight turning or pivotal movement of the infold ply It to maintain the curved edge 2l thereof constantly against the gage 28. This results in curving the tape Il in conformity with the curved edge 2l of the collar ply Il and attaching said tape to the collar ply by the two curved parallel rows oi' stitches 2t and 2l without visibly stretching any portion oi the tape or collar ply or forming any visible wrinkles or folds. 'I'he gage 22 is attached to the bed I a substantial distance laterally beyond the feed dog 2 3. It engages the curved side edge 2l of the collar ply Il during movement of the collar ply with the tape superimposed thereon. This causes the collar ply to move somewhat along a curved line of movement and to curve the tape along or relative to the ply. It also causes the needles to form curved parallel lines of stitches attaching the tape and the ply together throughout the entire distance that the collar ply is moved by the feed dog while the curved side edge of the ply is in engagement with the gage 2l. This makes the individual stitches 26 of very slightly greater length than the corresponding individual stitches 2l because the needles l and l operate simultaneously and the line of stitches 2l are formed on a slightly greater radius of curvature than the line of stitches 2l. After each collar ply Il passes beyond the sewing mechanism, rows of stitches will continue to be lformed along a short stretch of the tape Il until nother collar ply I9 is placed in position.

Wilton Rubinstein Patent No. 2,152,095, March 28,' 1939, discloses an apparel collar in which the parts are assembled in a different cooperative relationship from `the relationship of said parts disclosed in said Patents Nos. 2,152,093 and 2,152,094. According to said Patent No. 2,152,095,

the turned down collar comprises an infold ply extending the full length and width of the collar and attached to-the cooperating parts in a manner-to form a i'old line along which the band and cape may` be turned against each other. The band includes a lining section attached to the concealed side thereof and having a curved upper edge separated by a longitudinal space from the complementarily cuwedupper edge of the cape lining section along the fold line of the collar. The tape extends longitudinally along said space and has one margin slightly overlapping and covering the curved upper marginal portion of the ,cape lining section and attached thereto by a longitudinal curved line of stitches parallel with a curved line of stitches attaching the upper margin of the band lining section directly to the infold ply, and also parallel with another curved line of stitches attaching the opposite margin of the tape directly to the cape portion of the infold ply beyond said fold line space. In making collars having the tape overlapping land attached to theupper margin of the band lining section and to the infold ply by one curved line of stitches and attached to the infold ply beyond the fold line space, it is important that the two curved lines of stitches attaching the tape in this manner parallel the previously formed Curved line of stitches attaching the band lining section to the infold ply, and also parallel the upper edge of the band lining section.

' Mechanism for holding and guiding the infold ply of the collar and the attached band lining section, and for placing the tape thereon in prop- -er relationship during attachment of the tape to said infold ply and band lining section by parallel curved lines of stitches, is illustrated in Figs. 10, 1l and 12 of the drawings, in which reference numerals with exponents are analogous to the parts designated by the same reference numerals without exponents in the preceding views of the drawings.

In this device, a bracket or frame 30 has one end rigidly attached to the vertical presser foot bar I5' by a removable and replaceable fastener 3|. An arm 32 is also attached to the bar I5' by the fastener 3l. An arm 33 in connection with the front end of the bracket extends laterally beyond and forwardly from the needles 8 and 9', the entire bracket structure being relatively a considerable distance above the bed plate I so that it will not interfere with the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism or with inspection of the work at the stitch-forming mechanism by the operative. A resilient member comprising a downwardly extended part 34 and a rearwardly extended part 35 in connection with the part 34 is attached to the arm 33 by removable and replaceable fasteners 36.

The collar disclosed in said Wilton Rubinstein Patent No. 2,152,095 has a band lining section 31 (designated 3 in said patent), formed with a curved upper edge 38, attached directly to the concealed side of the infold ply I9 by a longitudinal curved line of stitches 39 parallel with the edge 38. l

The present invention also comprises a presser foot 40 attached to the lower end of the arm 32 by a pin 4I and having its forwardly extended portion provided with holes 42 through whioh the needles 8 and 9 operate. The front end of 40 to the stitch-'forming mechanism. The tape i I1' is guided in such a manner that the margins thereof extend beyond the needles 3' and 9' so Athat the parallel curved lines of stitches 26' and 21' pass through said tape and the collar ply I9'.

The rearwardly extended resilient part 35 is substantially above the work or materials being sewed, and does not interfere with the placement thereof at the stitch-forming mechanism, nor

with the subsequent movement thereof during operation of the stitch-forming mechanism. The part 35 is formed with a downwardly extended flange 45 which enga-ges the curved upper edge 38 of the band lining section 31 during placement of the work, and during subsequent operations in which the curved parallel lines of stitches 26' and 21 are formed. Because of the fact that the curved line of stitches 26' must be formed beyond the curved edge 38 of the band lining section, a distance at least equalling the width of the longitudinal fold line of the collar, it is essential that the flange 45 be in a vertical plane between the needles 8' and 9. It is also important that the -parts 35 and 45 be forwardly beyond the needles 8 and 9 far enough not to prevent the tape I1' from lying perfectly flat upon the subjacent band lining section 31 and collar ply I9', and the parts are as shown.

During movement of the collar ply and attached band lining section to and through the stitch-forming mechanism, the part 45, by engagement with the curved side edge 38 of the band lining section 31, prevents relative displacement of any of the parts to be attached and assures that the two parallel curved lines of stitches 26 and 21 will be formed parallel with the edges 38 and pre-formed line of stitches 39.

This device very greatly expedites and facilitates attachment of the tape I1' to the concealed sida of the infold ply of the collar in .a manner by which, when the collar is completed, a controlled and definite longitudinal fold line is provided between the line of stitches 26 and the upper edge 38 of the band lining section. For the attainment of this desirable effect, the parts must be secured together with such accuracy and precision as could not be easily and practicably attained heretofore by available sewing machines or devices therefor.

It should now be apparent that the present invention provides a solution of the difilcu-lties inherent in the attachment of a .straight tape to a `iiat piece of material along a radius of curvature by parallel curved lines of simultaneously formed stitches without buckling or wrinkling or otherwise visibly distorting any of the parts included in the work. The devices may be modied and varied otherwise than as specically disclosed without departure from the nature and principle of the invention.

I claim:

In a sewing machine having a supporting bed, a feed dog, a throat plate through which the feed dog operates, and two needles for forming two parallel lines of stitches simultaneously; a device for guiding a straight tape over the entire upper side of the feed dog, an element located between said needles and extending above said throat plate and above said feed dog for disengaging the tape from the feed dog after each operation of the needles, and a gage for engaging a curved side edge of a collar ply during movement thereof with the tape whereby said tape will be curved and curved lines of stitches will be formed by said needles approximately parallel with the said curved edge of said colla'i` D y- HARRY JOHNSTON. 

